Our last fling iin the USA before departure was a family
gathering at Zaxbys in Conyers. Gathered with us were the Mullinses, Ogdens and
Heatons. It was a miracle the building was still standing after our grandsons
finished. We had a great last visit with hugs and kisses all around. Leaving
was one of the hardest things that I ever did.
Benjamin drove us to the airport
where we unloaded our four 50 lb. suitcases plus two carry-ons each. We had a
bit of a struggle getting the bags to the check-in counter by ourselves, but we
are so independent and cheap that we managed it somehow.
We had a very nice young man checking us in who was
impressed with Suzanne’s story of a granddaughter born just yesterday and that
we were volunteering to teach in China for a year. Of course one of the bags was overweight by 5
lbs. but he didn’t charge for it. We felt lucky on that one. As we approached
security I looked at our boarding passes. I had requested an aisle seat for us
and the adjoining one. We were assigned seats A & C for the flight from
Atlanta to Seoul, Korea. It was the long leg of 17 hours. The thought of a
snoring Korean next to us on the leg was annoying. But I figured that perhaps
we could trade the window for the center seat or at the worst trade the aisle
for the center seat and we could at least sit together. We patiently waited for
Zone 4 to load figuring that all of the overhead storage would be gone by the
time we boarded. The nice ticket agent had moved to the boarding area and
greeted us and wished us a pleasant flight. He was our last contact with
America since it was a Korean Air flight. When we approached our seats, I
looked at the seat number on the boarding pass and at the seat, back to the
boarding pass and back to the seat. That nice young man had upgraded us to
business class. We had seats that actually lay down for sleeping!. We had more
movies than we could watch; we had more food than we could eat, although they
were strange food items. We never enjoyed a flight as much. I didn’t want it to
end. I knew at the end of this flight, I would return to being an economy
passenger. After 17 hours, however, I was ready for it to end. We arrived in
Seoul at 4:15 AM local time and had an 8:15 flight to Xi’an. The airport was
not very well sign posted so we followed the crowd to immigration to have our
passports stamped. After passport control we found ourselves in the unsecured
part of the airport with baggage claim and ground transportation. That is not where we wanted to be! We went back
in and found a Korean Air info desk that sent us to the departure terminal. We
were trying to make our way back to the departure gates. All of the security
check-points were closed. There was no
A/C, there were no English signs anywhere, and a sign on security check-in #1
said open at 8:00 AM go to Check-in 3 after 10PM. We go ~ 100 yards to check-in
#2 and it says open at 7:30AM, after 10PM go to Check-in #3. When we arrive at
Check-in #3 ~ 100 yards further it is closed with nothing in English at all. I
asked a guard, who spoke no English, where to go through security. He pointed
us to security check-in # 4. You guessed it, about 100 yards down the terminal.
Of course, upon arriving at security check point #4 it was closed with no
English signs posted. At this point, being a guy who gets pretty steamed when I
make a foolish mistake, I was dripping with sweat, my 24 hour deodorant stopped
working hours ago and I was in a pretty foul mood. We went back to Check-in #3
to wait it out. After about 30 minutes of steaming, and thinking about how if
we were on the Amazing Race, my error could have cost us $1,000,000, a few
security agents arrived and opened up check-in #3. Traveling with 2 laptops and
an I-pad is cumbersome at security points; they all had to be poked at. Then
there is the small matter of a titanium hip. I always get lots of hands-on personal attention.
Security took much longer than usual and we had quite a hike to our gate.
Suzanne was very observant and found a trolley that we could load all our stuff
on while we walked about 30 minutes to our gate. We walked by our arrival gate. It was only
about 10 gates from our departure gate. Our Korean adventure had used up much
of our 4 hour layover. It certainly was not boring. Our flight to China was
uneventful. We sat next to a Xi’an native who lives in New Jersey with her
American husband. She was traveling home because her father is very ill. She
told us how difficult it was to get an emergency visa to return to China. The
Chinese consulate in NYC said that she should have planned the trip in advance.
I think we should follow that advice and plan all of our emergencies.
We touched down in China on time and hit the gate ~ 10:50 AM
Thursday, September 6, Sarah’s birthday. I had managed to not lose our
passports. Our bags arrived after about 30 minutes at baggage claim. I was
afraid that we were supposed to take them through customs in Korea and they
were still sitting on the belt going around in Seoul, but there they were. We
made our way through the “Nothing to Declare” gate and were greeted by our waiban
(handler of foreigners). We loaded our stuff into a University Van and drove
the 1 hour to Xi’an International Studies University – Old Campus, where all of
the foreign teachers live. The university had to check our passports, visa etc.
and we went to an “office” which was more like a cleaning closet to pick up
keys for the apartment. I had to pay 200 ¥ (about $30), but of course,
we had not yet visited an ATM. There was a kind American teacher passing by who
loaned me the cash.
We toted our stuff to our second floor walk-up and looked it
over. The walls are chalk white. I say chalk because the white rubs off. It is probably toxic white lead paint. The
floors are a dark wood laminate that sounds ticky when you walk on them. But,
WE HAVE A/C!! The water was only a mild
brown when it came out of the faucet. It is better now. We have a 20 Liter
water bottle in a cooling stand that we replace for ~ 9 ¥ (a little more than $1). The
big bedroom has a king size bed but no A/C – That won’t do. We changed the king
bed into the smaller bedroom with A/C. The bed nearly fills the room. The door
won’t close because it hits the bed. We found ~ ½ inch of dust under the beds
when we moved them. We had to hold our breath as we cleaned the floor. We worked at unpacking and feathering our nest
until we could stay up no longer. We passed out and had a new adventure waiting
for us the next AM – the Chinese Health Department.
Our Lving Room ~ 8x10 |
University Botanical Garden off our rear balcony |
Kitchen, the box on the left is the washer |
From our front balcony |
We met at 8:30 with our waiban and two other foreign teachers
that had just arrived and headed off to the health department with our medical forms
from our competent US family doc, our chest X-rays, our EKG results, and our
comprehensive lab reports from outstanding US clinical laboratories. But China
is very thorough and wanted to make sure that we were not going to be a public
health nuisance while staying in their beautiful land. The line was about 100
people long. We waited while our waiban took our stuff to be examined by a
Chinese official. Whether it was a
government official or a medical official, I don’t know. They did not like our
X-rays so they had to be repeated. We hauled those bulky things all the way to
China for nothing. The other folks had to do more stuff to get the official red
stamp of approval. They stood in lines for EKGs, X-rays, Medical checks, BP
etc. We were special, we just had X-rays. Good thing we’ve finished our family
because it was probably a big dose! Friday was consumed by the visit to the
Health Department but our waiban treated us to a late lunch in the faculty
dining room. It was CHINESE FOOD! Who would have guessed. My right hand
developed a cramp from my attempts at chop sticks. Suzanne seems to have
figured it out, but I am not so coordinated.
We had the weekend to poke around our neighborhood. The
university is surrounded by a wall. There are three gates, all staffed by
security. There is no checking of anyone coming or going but the security guys
are there to move the cones out of the way when the university bus comes
through. The wall does keep out a lot of the city noise, and we do live in a
nice green space.
On Friday night, the daughter of one of the Italian teachers
gave a piano recital at the Xi’an Conservatory of Music. She had a performance
in Xi’an, then one in Beijing, and then back home to Italy. It was raining like a tropical storm, but the
foreign teachers all walked ~ ¼ mile to the bus stop and boarded a bus with
about 500 Chinese to go into the center of town. When we were told to get off
the bus, we headed back into the storm and hiked ¼ mile to the recital hall. It
was packed, it was humid, and there was no A/C. Well, there probably was A/C
but too expensive to use it! We found
seats on the front row and enjoyed the show. The return trip was just as
eventful, rain coming down sideways, water in the street deeper than your
shoes. Suzanne had three very ugly blisters by the time we arrived home.
Saturday we found a grocery store called Metro. It is about
¾ mile from the apt. It is a Chinese Sam’s Club, except not! We found cheese, a
Chinese form of Nutela, peanut butter, bread, milk that does not require
refrigeration, yogurt-- the essentials of life. It, of course, was still
raining but just a bit.
Sunday was truly a blessing. We meet with our branch in a
former hotel on our campus about 100 yards from our front door. The other BYU
teachers in town have to taxi over to our campus. They say it is about 35
minute ride. They are closer to the city wall and the Muslim Quarter. It sounds
like an interesting place, but I digress. Our branch consists of six teachers
at XISU, seven other BYU teachers at two other universities in Xi’an; an old
fellow ~ 70 perhaps, that came as a BYU teacher 10 years ago and has a Chinese
wife and a young couple with 3 children < 8 years old. Our sacrament meeting was great; each of us
came to the podium and talked briefly about our favorite hymn. Then we sang it.
My favorite was # 102, Jesus Lover of my Soul. I said how special it is to me because
we play it together as a family quartet. Suzanne chose one that has a double
life – Brightly Beams Our Father’s Mercy. We left our meetings feeling the
Savior’s love.
Wow! That's amazing. Thanks for sharing the stories. We're very proud of you guys.
ReplyDeleteThat was very nice of the man to upgrade you guys to nice seats on the flight! Glad you left the country in style =)
It's still crazy to think that you guys are on the other side of the globe, but not as crazy as thinking of you eating with chopsticks. Every day sounds like an adventure.
How is the weather over there? Sounds like lots of rain, is it rainy season? Are the temperatures similar to home? Just coming up on fall there too right?
Wow! What a great trip so far! You are an excellent story teller. This has been so fun to read. I loved seeing the pictures as well. Fun to be able to picture what your life is like there. Can't wait to hear more. We both really love Brightly Beams our Fathers Mercy as well. Such a great hymn.
ReplyDeleteUpgraded to business class....the travel gods are always with you, lucky dogs.
ReplyDeleteAnd to think, it's only been the first week! Your record is going to be amazing by the time you come home if you keep this up. We miss you, but I'm so proud of you. I'm glad we can talk while you're so far away. The Heatons here love you.
ReplyDeleteBear up brother! I'm proud of you and look forward to reading about your adventures.
ReplyDelete